To assist family and friends in their selection of which wines to drink on Thanksgiving Day, and to avoid a 30 minute description of each wine before you select a bottle (thank you Kenz!) here is a guide to the various offerings. All the wines are either EU certified organic or adhere to organic farming practices. In the cantina the wines are either 100% natural or are made with minimal intervention (i.e. a negligible amount of sulfites at bottling or the selection of neutral yeasts). The wines are not manipulated with the grape concentrate mega purple or rossisimo (mega purple type product in Italy). Grape concentrates are prevalent in many wines produced by large winemaking companies. If you have 30 minutes to spare on Thursday, your Druncle Bob will be available to discuss the use of mega purple and other additives in the wine making process.
The wineries featured below are all family owned. Southern Italian wineries that have small productions; several produce less than 5,000 bottles per year. None of the Southern Italian wineries listed below produce more than 50,000 bottles per year.
Sparkling Wines
These two sparkling wines are 100% natural. There are no additives, including no sulfites, nor selected yeasts. For those of you that believe that additives such as sulfites bring headaches these wines are for you. The light colored Scalese wine is produced by Casa Esposito, a tiny producer of under 2,000 bottles per year, which commenced operations in 2020 under the leadership of Nicola De Rosa and his brother-in-law Roberto. Esposito is the surname of Nicola’s grandfather, who started the farm. With the name of Casa Esposito how can you not love the wine? This Amalfi Coast wine is a blend of 50% falanghina, 40% biancolella and 10% of three indigenous grapes. The pink colored wine is produced by Casebianche. This Cilento (south of the City of Salerno and Amalfi Coast) wine is made with 100% aglianico grapes. Casebianche, which is EU certified organic, belongs to RAW WINE, an association of natural/low intervention winemakers. Betty Iourio and Pasquale Mitrano started Casebianche in the late 1990’s. They produces about 30,000 bottles per year. We have visited their cantina on many occasions; they have become good friends. They are in our circle of BFF.
White Wines
NO -Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay – YES Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, Fiano
These three dry aromatic white wines are from the Campania Region. All three of the wines are fermented spontaneously (no selected yeasts) and there are no additives other than a small amount of sulfites at bottling to stabilize the wine. The amounts of sulfites added are about 10% of the amount that the USDA allows. Indole is produced by Mario Terza of FloraMi. Mario produces about 4,000 bottles per year and his vineyard is located at the base of Mt. Vesuvio. This falanghina wine will also include hints of minerality due to its proximity to the active volcano. Paone is produced by the self-taught winemaker Luigi Sarno of Cantina del Barone. Luigi produces about 16,000 bottles per year and his vineyard is in the Irpinia wine region. This Fiano wine also has hints of minerality, again due to volcanic ash in the soil after eruptions of Mt. Vesuvio over the years. At the 2019 Thanksgiving Day at Ed and Di’s, Di took a particular liking to a Fiano from Irpinia. Miniere is produced by Angelo Muto of Dell’Angelo. Angelo produces about 22,000 bottles per year and his vineyard is also in Irpinia. This Greco di Tufo wine derives from grapes grown over closed sulfur mines; the Italian word miniere translates into English as “mines”. Expectedly, there are also hints of minerality in the wine. Cantina del Barone and Dell’Angelo work collaboratively as Luigi Sarno is Angelo Muto’s wine consultant. Both wineries are members of RAW WINE, an association of natural/low intervention winemakers. Of the three wines, the falangina Indole is the lightest.
Rose` wines
Rose wine outside of summer – why not? Rose has become a year-round wine. It pairs well with turkey. For you rose drinkers there are two wines to choose from; both are natural/low intervention wines with the only additive a trace of sulfites at bottling to stabilize the wine. Getis, which is produced by the brothers Luigi and Gaetano Reale, is a blend of the per e` palummo (piedirosso) and tintore grapes. The small vineyard, which produces grapes for about 11,000 bottles per year is in Tramonti, a town nestled in the mountains of the Amalfi Coast. The brothers also operate an osteria and B&B on the grounds of the vineyard. Getis is EU certified organic. Il Marinetta, which is produced by Sergio Arcuri, is a gaglioppo based wine. The small vineyard, which produces grapes for about 20,000 bottles per year, is in Ciro` Marina, a town on the Ionian coast in eastern Calabria. Sergio is assisted by his brother Francesco. Sergio’s wines are EU certified organic and belong to Triple A, an association of natural/low intervention wines.
Red Wines
Am I drinking a Pinot Noir or a Barolo?
No, but if are a Pinot Noir or Barolo drinker here are two wines for your consideration. Cuore di Marchesa produced by Pietro di Giovanni and Piu` Vite produced by Sergio Arcuri are both natural/low intervention wines as they add only a trace of sulfites at bottling. Both wines are fermented spontaneously. Cuore di Marchesa is from the Mt. Etna area of Sicily. The Etna Rosso is made with the nerello mascalese grape. When I include this wine in tasting events, people that prefer Pinot Noir wine select Cuore di Marchesa as their favorite. Piu` Vite is from the Ciro` Marina area of Calabria (eastern coast on the Ionian Sea). The Ciro` Marina Riserva is made with the gaglioppo grape. Many Italian wine experts believe that the gaglioppo grape over time will be revered similar to the nebbiolo grape (the grape that Barolo is made from). At this point that may a reach, but at this time one could equate the gagliopo grape tasting profile more in line with the entry level nebbiolo wines such as Langhe. Sergio Arcuri’s wines as noted above are are EU certified organic and belong to Triple A.
Kifak – a Lebanese Wine from Bekaa Valley
Chateau Musar is the leading producer of wine in Lebanon. The winery, which is in Bekaa Valley, is a low intervention, certified organic and a member of Triple A (as is Sergio Arcuri, see above). Gaston Hochar, who was the patriarch of the family that owns and operates Chateau Musar, started bottling wine from the family vineyard in 1930; and the family has done every year since, even during the fifteen-year civil war. The Hochar family settled in Lebanon in the 12th century, during the Crusades. Hochar Pere Et Fils is a blend of three grapes: cabernet sauvignon, grenache and cinsault. For those who like blended wines or need a cabernet sauvignon fix or want to pair with some of the Lebanese food to be served, this wine is for you. (Note, this is the only winery that we have not visited.)
Easy Drinking Low Alcohol Percent Wine
Casa di Baal, which was founded by Annibale Salerno and his father in 1976 in Montecorvino, a town about 20 miles east of the City of Salerno, has produced extra virgin olive since the outset and only started producing wine in 2006. Casa di Baal cultivates several grapes including the barbera grape from Sannio (Benevento Province), which is not as the same as the barbera grape from the Piemonte Region despite having the same name. Torno Subito, which is made with the barbera sannio grape, is an easy drinking low alcohol wine (12.5%) that features strong hints of fruit. Torno Subito is a low intervention wine, fermented spontaneously with the minimal addition of sulfites at bottling. Casa di Baal, which is a member of RAW WINE, is a full fledged farm with olive groves, fruit orchards, vegetables, and farm animals. The farm serves as an educational experience for local students.
Not Your California Zinfandel Wine But Related
The zinfandel grape cultivated in the US mostly in California originated from Puglia where it is known as the primitivo grape. Immigrants from Puglia brought the primitivo grape to California. Interestingly, the primitivo grape was brought to Puglia from Croatia in the 16th century where it is known as either the Tribidrag or Crljenak Kasteljanski grape (the names appear to the surname of NBA players.) Contrada San Pietro is a primitivo based wine produced by Mariangela Plantamura, located in Gioia del Colle, Bari, Puglia. (Fun fact – Sylvester Stallone’s father was born in Gioia del Colle – but no he did not bring the primitivo grape with him from Italy.) Her wines are EU certified. The primitivo grape thrives in the warm dry climate of Gioia del Colle. Due to early ripening caused by intense heat, Mariangela harvests her primitivo grapes in late August. Contrada San Pietro is an easy drinking full body red with strong hints of fruits and spices and has a high alcohol percentage (15%).
Wine From Our BFF
The first winery we visited on our first trip to Italy (2010) was Terre del Principe. We were smothered with “Southern Hospitality”. Except on two occasions on each of our subsequent annual trips we have visited Manuela Piancastelli and Peppe Mancini, the owners of Terre del Principe. We hosted a wine tasting of Terre del Principe wines at my former law firm at which Manuela and Peppe were present, as was the Boston Italian consulate (2017). Manuela and Peppe hosted a small birthday celebration for Mother at their cantina upon her 85th birthday (2011). Manuela and Peppe attended Lauren’s and Joe’s wedding last year – so the connection runs deep. Their winery is in Castel Campagnano, a tiny village in the Province of Caserta. Their annual production of about 20,000 bottles per year is EU certified organic. Piancastelli is a blend of the pallagrello nero and casavecchia grapes; two grapes that were “re-discovered” by Peppe 30 years ago. The wine has hints of fruit, chocolate and is semi-sweet due to the late harvest of a small percentage of grapes.
Aglianico Based Wines Are Referred to as Barolo of the South – I Say Barolo and Nebbiolo Based Wines are Aglianico of the North
Similar to the elite status of the nebbiolo grape in Piemonte and Lombardia (where nebbiolo is known as chiavennasca), the aglianico grape is the premier grape in Campania and Basilicata. There is a range of aglianico based wines to taste: ones from Salerno, Irpinia (Avellino) and Vulture (Potenza). Wines from Salerno are less intense than those from Irpinia and Vulture, with the ones from Irpinia as the most intense/bold (due to a strong tannic influence). Aglianico based wines are dry and have a variety of tastes depending on the terrior including red fruits, black fruits, fig, licorice, tobacco, spices – similar to tastes found in Barolo wines.
Salerno Aglianico Wines
How About Another BFF?
Patrizia Malanga, owner and operator of Le Vigne di Raito is another Italian BFF. We met Patrizia at her Amalfi Coast winery in Vietri sul Mare (2013) and discovered that our heritage is from the same part of Italy – Patrizia was born in Bella, Potenza and my Grandparents were born in Corleto Perticara, Potenza – about 55 miles from Bella. We are both Lucans, name given from people who originate from this part of Italy. We visit her winery every year, including last year as Patrizia hosted Lauren’s and Joe’s wedding. Ragis is a blend of aglianico and piedirosso grapes. The piedirosso grape “softens” the influence of the “stronger” aglianico grape. My Mother preferred blended aglianico wines as she did not care for the stronger 100% aglianico based wines – i.e. Taurasi. Le Vigne di Raito is low intervention (spontaneous fermentation and only minimal sulfites added at bottling) and EU certified organic. Patrizia produces less than 5,000 bottles per year.
Tre Cugini (Three Cousins)
A wine made by three cousins; appropriate for this Thanksgiving. Armando Ruggerio, Daniele Iuorio and Fiorella Iuorio in 2007 decided to produce wine from their family’s vineyard in Campagna, Salerno. (Campagna is pronounced differently than Campania – please ask Ro to explain the difference as I am unable to detect the difference – same for many Italians.) Graminga is an organic low intervention wine (interestingly, the cousins start the spontaneous fermentation in the vineyard during harvest). The cousins produce about 20,000 bottles per year. Of the 100% aglianico based wines included in this event, Graminga has the least amount of tannins.
Potenza Wine – a third BFF
So, we have a third Italian BFF’s (or is it four – need to include Casebianche) – the Laluce family from Ginestra, Potenza (they are Lucans like Patrizia, me, Joe and Dave). The patriarch, Michele, is assisted by his four daughters, Caterina directs the finances, Maddalena the winemaker, Donatelli is an agronomist who operates the machinery and tends to the farm animals and Michela is studying culinary. Since we met the Laluce family in 2015, we have visited them on each of our subsequent trips to Italy. Similar to our other Italian BFF, we are always smothered with “Southern Hospitality” when we meet. Le Drude is named after the courageous Brigante women who battled the Piemonte army post-unification. Le Drude was the name the Piemonte army gave to the Lucan women fighters. Le Drude is an organic low intervention wine, that is representative of the Vulture wine region as it has strong hints of red fruits, some tobacco and licorice. Aglianico del Vulture wines, such as Le Drude, are Amy’s favorite wine. I have brought three bottles figuring Amy is good for at least one bottle, perhaps two.
Irpinia
Fiorentino – Celsi
Have I included all the Italian surnames? Esposito – check; Bonadies/Montano (my family surnames) – check because Patrizia Malanga from Le Vigne di Raito refers to me as her cousin and now Fiorentino. In 2012 Gianni Fiorentino began production of wine from the family vineyard in Paternopoli, which has a Chelsea, MA connection. Gianni’s grandfather immigrated to Chelsea in 1914. Similar to many Italian immigrant stories, his grandfather sent money to the family in Italy. The family used some of the money to purchase a vineyard. In recognition of the grandfather’s contribution Gianni named his Irpinia Aglianico wine Celsi, which is pronounced in Italian as Chel-sea. Gianni produces about 15,000 bottles of organic wines on an annual basis. Celsi is an entry level aglianico wine from the Irpinia area; it is not as intense as either of the two other DOC/DOCG aglianico based wines – Campi Taurasini or Taurasi.
Antico Castello – Yet Another BFF
Francesco and Chiara Romano, brother/sister, are yet another BFF (I have lost count at this point). We have had lunch at their winery on several occasions, we held a wine tasting for Francesco at my former law firm and Francesco, his wife Diamante and their toddler participated in Lauren’s and Joe’s weeklong wedding festivities. Francesco and Chiara have recently assumed the management of the family winery, which was started by their parents, Franco and Fiorenza, in 2006. Antico Castello is named after a feudal building, which was located near the vineyard in San Mango del Calore, that was destroyed in the 1980 devasting earthquake. Massale is an organically produced Riserva Taurasi, and Antico Castello’s top wine. The wine has many of the characteristics associated with the aglianico grape described above: licorice, black currant and fig. And as with Taurasi it has an abundant of tannins. A powerhouse wine that many cabernet sauvignon drinkers prefer.
Il Cancelliere
Under the direction of the patriarch, Soccorso Romano, in 2005 the Romano family started bottling wine made from grapes from its vineyard in Montemarano. Today, Soccorso’s daughter-in-law Rita Pizza manages Il Cancelliere. Nero Ne` is a 100% natural and organic wine – there are no additives, including no sulfites added. Nero Ne` contains the characteristics associated with Taurasi wines as noted above. As a 100% natural wine it is a wine we have found that needs time to open up, otherwise it may come across as harsh – difficult to drink. But once it opens up, it is worth the wait. Il Cancelliere has formed a collaborative arrangement with Cantina del Barone and Dell’Angelo wine producers included above in the section on white wiens. They market their wines together. On each of our several visits to Il Cancelliere, either Luigi Sarno from Cantina del Barone or Angelo Muto from Dell’Angelo or both have joined us for the tasting. Il Cancelliere is a member of RAW WINE.
