Southern Italy Wine Culinary Travel Resource

Annual Wine tasting – Aglianico – Piedirosso Cult Wines

Two wines with the same blending of grapes (80-20% aglianico and piedirosso, respectively), but from two different areas of Campania. Galardi’s Terra di Lavoro  is made from grapes grown in the northern part of Campania, whereas Le Vigne di Raito’s Ragis is made from grapes grown in the first town of the Amalfi Coast. It will interesting to contrast these wines. Below are earlier posts on both wineries that I am re-publishing.

Garlardi s.r.l.

In the early 1990’s on their family estate, four cousins — Maria Luisa Murena, Arturo and Dora Celentano, and Francesco Catello — began producing wine for commercial distribution instead of sending their grapes north to fortify or add coloring to weaker wines.  As noted in earlier blog posts, the transformation of Southern Italian winemakers from suppliers of grapes to producers of their own wines is common.  In the case of Galardi, the estate, which has been owned by the family for over 150 years, has been transformed into an internationally acclaimed winery http://www.terradilavoro.com.  Over the past 20 years, Galardi has established itself as a leading  producer of wine made with a blending of the aglianico and piedirosso grapes. Its only wine, Terra di Lavoro, has received the coveted and prestigious tre bicchieri award from the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso for the last 12 years.  Galardi has received many other prestigious awards which, coupled with its limited production of about 30,000 bottles, give Terra di Lavoro cult status.

Galardi vineyard is located at an elevation of 400 meters on a summit which is kept cool in evenings by a sea breeze from the nearby Gulf of Gaeta. From the summit, there is a panoramic view of the countryside (see my mother, Angela, in photo above) and on a clear day the Gulf is visible. The soil, like that of many Campania wineries, has been influenced by ashes from an extinct volcano, Mount Roccamonfina.  The enriched soil, warm days, and cool

Maria Luisa explaining to Bob and his Mother, Angela, Galardi's organic viticulture
Maria Luisa is explaining to Bob and Angela Galardi’s organic viticulture

evenings create an ideal growing condition for the indigenous aglianico and piedirosso grapes.

The winery is tucked away in the northwest corner of Campania in the frazione of San Carlo (1,000 inhabitants).  One must drive through several of the small frazioni that comprise the town of Sessa Aurunca to reach Galardi.   There is no signage for the winery, thus one must have an understanding of which narrow road, lined with olive and chestnut trees, to take to get there.

When we visited several years ago, Maria Luisa Murena gave us a tour of the cellar and vineyard and highlighted that Galardi’s chemical free, natural viticulture is certified organic.  She then invited us to her home located on the estate (her cousins also have homes on the estate) for a tasting

Bob and Angela at the entrance of wine cellar
Bob and Angela at the entrance of wine cellar

of the Terra di Lavoro 2009 vintage.  Maria Luisa provided a condensed family history. Her late husband was a baron. Her family has direct links to the Spaniards that ruled the Naples Kingdom prior to the Bourbon reign. In fact her last name, Murena, is of Spanish origin.

I encourage readers to try Terra di Lavoro, but a heads up — it is an expensive wine when compared to other wines reviewed in previous blog posts.

 

 

Le Vigne Di Raito

We were looking forward to viewing Patrizia Malanga’s new cantina which was completed in time for her to start this year’s fermentation and aging. We were not disappointed. The cantina is well-designed and includes areas for fermentation, aging, packaging and a small laboratory that Patrizia uses to measure the PH, acidity and sugar in the aging wine. Patrizia has also

Le Vigne Di Raito cantina, the ceramic third from left dates to the 1700's
Le Vigne Di Raito cantina, the ceramic third from left dates to the 1700’s

incorporated old ceramic tiles into the cantina’s decor. The patio off the cantina features  spectualar views of the Gulf of Salerno; views that have been described in an earlier article (September 11, 2015).

Le Vigne Di Raito is certified organic. Patrizia minimizes “stress” on the grapes as she uses a “soft press” method. She uses a special low stress pump to transfer the juice from the fermentation tanks to smaller tanks and barrels. The piedirosso and aglianico grapes are fermented and aged differently. After the soft press, agliancio is placed directly into wood barrels which requires Patrizia to “battinage” the aglianico wine juice. Piedirosso is fermented in stainless steel. Patrizia decides each year whether to age piedirosso in steel or wood; no decision had been made for this year at the time of our visit.

Patrizia battinaging the aglianico wine juice.
Patrizia battinaging the aglianico wine juice.

Patrizia, like other winemakers, incorporates new wood barrels in the aging process. She has some of the wine age in new barrels and others in older barrels referred to as second passage, third passage, etc. Each passage generally equates to a year. We contrasted the smell of wine aging in two barrels and noted the stronger wood influence on the smell from the new barrel when compared to that from the second passage barrel. Patrizia, perfectionist and artist, will not produce wine unless she is satisfied with the quality of the grapes. Last year was a difficult harvest and instead of producing wine with what she assessed to be inferior grapes, she opted to sell her grapes to other producers and “sit out” the 2014 vintage.

We concluded our visit with coffee, cake, and conversation overlooking the Gulf of Salerno and walking through the quaint alley ways of the frazione of Raito – bellisimo!

Ceramic vase in alley way in frazione of Raito
Ceramic flowers in vase in alley way in frazione of Raito

2 Comments

  1. Diane Iagull

    January 14, 2016 - 8:11 am

    enjoy reading

    • Bob

      January 16, 2016 - 11:13 am

      Thank you – and as good as it reads it tastes better! We need to get together for a tasting!