Antonio Caggiano, Salvatore Molettieri, and Michele Perillo are premier producers of Taurasi wine. I have visited their wineries collectively eight times. I look forward to our annual visits as Antonio, Salvatore, and Michele are most welcoming of us.  When I showcase their wines at tastings I have been asked which of the three wines I prefer. I say it depends on what type of mood I am in, but in no event would I ever turn down the opportunity to taste their Taurasi.

In this article, I will address Taurasi wine in general, as well as the similarities and differences among the winemakers and each of their wines.

Taurasi  is considered the most noble of Southern Italy wines. It has been referred to as the Barolo of the South. No discussion on the history of Taurasi is complete without acknowledging the important role of the Mastroberardino family. The family has commercially produced Taurasi for over 130 years.  Taurasi is made with the indigineous aglianico (pronounced ahl-yee-AH-nee-ko) grape which results in a powerful, intense, and aromatic wine. The grape thrives in areas that are hot and dry with volcanic soil. The Taurasi wine region is located in the Province of Avellino.

There are similarities among Caggiano, Molettieri, and Perillo. They began producing their wine from family vineyards.  Prior to starting their production of wines, the three wine makers sold their grapes to local producers (Mastroberardino) or to northern producers to fortify northern wines.  Caggiano, Moletierri, and Perillo work in their vineyards. This is evident when you shake their strong hands. There is no shortage of passion with their wine-making from the planting, to harvest, to vinification, to aging and to the bottling.  None are fluent in English.

The three have differing personalities and different methods of making wine. Antonio Caggiano is a colorful personality. An architect and accomplished photographer, he designed his spectacular cantina located in the Town of Taurasi. The cantina features a showroom of his photographs, a tasting area and cellar all located in a single building that is a modern structure with a rustic style. In 1990 he started his wine production with the assistance of the heralded wine consultant Luigi Moio. Antonio’s son, Pino, now manages the estate which produces approximately 155,000 bottles per year. Influenced by his wine consultant, Antonio produces his flagship Taurasi, Macchia dei Goti, in the  “Bordeaux” style. This wine ages for a year in French barrique barrels and then is transferred to age in older barrels. On his website Antonio describes this wine as ruby-red in color, complex, bold with a definite scent of fruit,

Salvatore Molettieri has spent much of his life in the family owned vineyard. In 1983 Salvatore decided

to stop selling his grapes and produce his own wine. At first, he did not bottle his award winning wine. Salvatore’s first bottling of 7,225 bottles was in 1988 and available for sale in 1995. Now Salvatore and his four sons, Giovanni, Guiseppe, Luigi, and Paolo produce about 70,000 bottles per year. The cantina, which is located in the Town of Montemarano, is a large nondescript warehouse that features a large, comfortable tasting area. His wines are noted for their intensity and high alcohol content. The wines achieve these traits in part due to a late harvest (the first or second week of November), higher elevation of the vineyard and Salvatore’s method of aging wine. For example, his flagship Taurasi, Vigna Cinque Querce Riserva, is aged as follows: 70% split evenly between Slovenian and French large oak barrels and 30% split two-thirds in small traditional French oak barrels and one-third in small specially made French oak barrels which are designed to draw out the tannins. On his website Salvatore describes this wine as deep ruby red, great complexity, fruits of sour cherry and prune jam, spicy and toasty notes and elegant tannins.

Similar to Molettieri, Michele Perillo has spent his life in the family owned vineyard. In 1999 Michele had his first bottling which was available for sale in 2003. This first bottling consisted of only 2,140 bottles. Although still a small producer, Michele has expanded his annual production to approximately 20,000 bottles. Interestingly he has a strong international following as about 80% of his wines are sold abroad. Michele’s cantina which is located in the town of Castelfranci is a garage with no formal tasting area. Michele does not attend many wine tastings but is welcoming to visitors. His flagship Taurasi Riserva is aged  in equal amounts in large and small barrels for two years. He then blends the wine in a stainless steel tank and quickly bottles. After two years of bottle aging, the wine is released for sale. His Riserva is described on the back of the bottle as full-bodied, complex, warm and fruity. On his website Michele describes this wine as featuring wild cherries, ash, cured meats, spice, licorice, long and beautifully balanced with complexity and an elegant finish.

Three different personalities, three different aging processes,  three different cantina, three different amounts of annual production, and all excellent wines – you decide.