On Saturday November 13, 2021 I will be hosting a private tasting in connection with raising funds for a public charity. There will be 12 wines as part of the tasting and a welcoming wine. The wines are from producers that abide by organic or biodynamic and/or natural/low intervention practices. See my May 5, 2021 blog post for a discussion of these different winemaking classifications. https://southernitalywine.com/natural-wines-low-or-minimal-intervention-wines-and-the-use-of-additives/
Welcoming Wine
Il Fric 2020 – made with the aglianico grape by Azienda Agricola Casebianche, Torchiara, Salerno, Campania. Il Fric is a dry sparkling wine from the Cilento area of Salerno (south of the Amalfi Coast and the City of Salerno). This is a perfect natural wine; there are no additives, not even a tiny quantity of sulfites at bottling as are most natural/low intervention wines. There are no clarifying agents added,
despite the second fermentation in the bottle. The only sulfites in the wine naturally occur; sulfites are 8 parts per million {“ppm”). To provide perspective: USA allows up to 350 ppm of sulfites to be added to wine. Organic producers per EU standards are allowed to add sulfites; but per EU standards organic wines cannot exceed 100 ppm, though most organic producers are far below the standard. Note that natural/low intervention winemakers add sulfites generally in amounts less than organic producers. The husband/wife combination of Pasquale Mitrano and Elisabetta Iuorio, both architects, moved from Naples to assume ownership of Elisabetta’s father’s vineyard in the late 1990s. Casebianche, which is a member of Raw Wine and FIVI, has an annual production of about 30,000 bottles.
Rose`Wine
Il Marinetto, 2019 – a rose` made with the gaglioppo grape by Azienda Agricola Sergio Arcuri, Ciro Marina, Crotone, Calabria. Sergio Arcuri grapes are grown in two vineyards, one planted in clay with a little limestone, and one planted in 1980 in clay with loam and red sand. Il Marinetto is made from grapes from the younger vineyard. It is spontaneously fermented using natural yeasts in open ‘palmento’ fermenters in the traditional non-intervention method used by farmers of past generations. After fermentation the wine is aged in steel with a short stay in the bottle. Sergio and his brother Francesco
own and manage the small 20,000 bottles per year production. The family has a long tradition of winemaking. Sergio’s and Francesco’s great-grandfather produced wine and olive oil over 120 years ago. But their grandfather sold the family vineyard. Sergio’s and Francesco’s father purchased new land from which he made “cask wine” for locals. In 2009 Sergio and Francesco modernized the cellar and converted the winery to bottling. Sergio Arcuri is an EU certified organic winery that produces natural/low intervention wines and belongs to the Triple A Movement and FIVI.
White Wines
Conlebucce 2018 – made with the falanghina grape by FloraMi Societa` Agricola, Trecase, Napoli, Campania. The husband wife team of Mario Terzo and Mila Abagnale started the winery in 2013. They are both engineers from Napoli. The vineyard is located at the foot of Mount Vesuvius. Mario and Mila produce ungrafted falanghina grapes, which means the rootstock is original, not American rootstock, which is used by most vineyards in Italy and France. Over 100 years ago the Phylloxera, an aphid type insect, destroyed the roots of almost all the Italian grapevines, except those in sandy volcanic soil. The American roots are impervious to the Phylloxera. FloraMi’s vineyard abides by natural agronomic
practices, without the use of synthetic chemicals. The grapes are manually harvested and are spontaneously fermented with natural yeasts vinified and macerated for about 30 to 40 days in steel. Con le bucce translates to “with peels”, which mean the fermented wine juice is in longer contact with the skins of the grape than their other wine, Indole. The wine is aged in steel for 8 months on fine lees and further refinement of 10 months in the bottle.. A natural/low intervention wine, less than 2,000 bottles of Conlebucce are produced, and FloraMi produces about 3,000 bottles of Indole. ‘Flora” is the name of Mario’s mother and his daughter. “Mi” represents the first two letters of his wife’s name. And the stylized Mount Vesuvius logo also represents the “M” in Mario.
Primo Fiano di Avellino 2018 – made with the fiano grape by Ventitre`Filari, Montefredane, Avellino, Campania. Rosello De Bennedetto and her daughter Rosa, had their first production five years ago from a vineyard that Rosella’s grandfather planted 27 years ago. Before Ventitre`Filari started producing their own wine, they sold their grapes to larger Irpinia based wineries: Mastroberardino,
Feudi San Gregorio and Villa Raiano. In the constant search for high quality, Ventitre`Filari decided to produce a limited quantity of bottles (only 4,000 bottles per year), to preserve the production from invasive techniques and to observe traditional winemaking methods . The wine is only produced by plants sourced exclusively from Ventitre`Filari vineyards, made up of 23 rows and about a thousand vines, all over 20 years of age. Ventitre in Italian translates to twenty-three and Filari translates to rows. Vinification is in steel for nine months on fine lees and 10-12 months in the bottle. Ventitre`Filari abides by organic viticulture methods, but has not been in operation long enough to be certified organic.
Red Wines
Etna Rosso 2019 – made with nerello mascalese (90%) and nerello cappuccino (10%) grapes by Vini Quantico, Linguaglossa, Catania, Sicilia. Giovanni Raiti’s family has been making wine for personal and local consumption since 1900. In 2009, Giovanni decided to produce wine for regional and international markets. The vineyard is located in Solicchiata, which is about a 20 minute drive from Linguaglossa and at the northern ridge of Mt. Etna, an active volcano. With vines that are 80 to 90 years old he works
in collaboration with his good friend and enologist Pietro di Giovanni, who also owns a vineyard in Solicchiata and produces his own Etna Rosso. Together Pietro and Giovanni share grapes from the vineyard to produce their Etna Rosso. (Giovanni’s Etna Bianco is sourced from a vineyard that he owns in Linguaglossa.) Giovanni and Pietro use no fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides in the vineyard and no commercial yeasts in the cellar, thus producing a natural wine. Fermentation is in steel and the must ages in both barrique and tonneaux for a minimum of one year. Vini Quantico produces only about 12,000 bottles per year. Collaboration among small producers is common throughout Southern Italy.
Ragis Costa D’Amalfi 2015 – made with a blend of aglianico (60%) and piedirosso (40%) grapes by Le Vigne di Rait0 Azienda Agricola Agriturista Biologica, Raito (a frazione of Vietri sul Mare, the most eastern town on the Amalfi Coast), Salerno, Campania. The owner, Patrizia Malanga, purchased the terraced land in 2001. It took Patrizia six years before she produced her first vintage. To appreciate the difficult labor to be encountered by her workers associated with maintaining a terraced vineyard,
Patrizia, herself, planted the vineyard. The aglianico and piedirosso grapes are vinified separately in stainless steel fermentation vessels where they macerate for over 15 days under controlled temperature. Then the two wines are transferred into 500 liter French oak barrels and assembled before malolactic fermentation begins. The wine ages in the barrels for 12 months before it is bottled. After some racking procedures and without any further interventions such as clarification or filtration, Ragis continues to age in the bottle. The winery features a spectacular vista from its tasting patio over looking the Gulf of Salerno. Le Vigne di Raito produces less than 5,000 bottles per year. It is EU certified organic and produces natural/low intervention wines.
Aglianico di Baal 2016 – made with the aglianico grape by Azienda Agricola Casa di Baal Azienda, Macchia, a frazione of Montecorvino, Salerno, Campania. The patriarch of the Salerno family, Annibale, along with his father purchased the Casa di Baal farm in 1977. Originally, Casa di Baal produced extra virgin olive oil, fruits and vegetables, but in 2006 Casa di Baal started the production. Casa di Baal wines are fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts. The whole farm is EU certified organic. An example of a natural/organic method of controlling pests, Casa di Baal has bee hives, not for the production of honey, but to protect the grapes. The bees are predators of an invasive parasite that attack grapes that split in the heat. Once the parasite is eliminated the grapes self-heal. This is a natural way to protect the
grapes. Casa di Baal has an annual production of about 25,000 bottles. Daughter Francesca directs the wine production and son Mario directs the production of extra virgin olive oil. The family spends much time tending to the vines. In January, the family along with a couple of field hands prune the vines. In April/May the same group will cut some of the stems of the vines to lessen the stress on the plants. This process is referred to as potatura verde. In the summer the same group will prune some leaves. Aglianico di Baal ferments in steel and ages for 12 months in medium sized oak barrels and another 12 months in the bottle. Casa di Baal is a member of Raw Wine and FIVI.
Milavuolo Aglianico 2015, aglianico, Azienda Agricola Vuolo, Rufoli/Giove, Salerno, Campania – Mila Vuolo winery is located in both Rufoli and Giove, two frazioni of the city of Salerno. The winery is named after the owner. Mila’s father, a physician, purchased the site in 1980’s to be a “hideaway” working farm. When Mila’s father died over 20 years ago, Mila began to work at the farm. After a year or two of commuting from Rome she quit her telecommunication job and dedicated herself full-time at the farm. In addition to growing olives and apples, Mila decided to make wine for commercial purposes. As
an EU certified organic producer, her first few vintages were small; which is typical for organic producers as it is difficult to create yield without the use of non-natural interventions. Her grapes are hand-picked; no machinery. In 2003 Mila had her first production – a modest 2,000 bottles. The next two years’ vintages were about the same. By 2006 the yield increased to 4,000 bottles. In 2007 the yield was 5,000 bottles and in 2009 the yield was 7,000. Her current annual yield is about 13,000 bottles. Milavuolo Aglianico 2015 is fermented in steel and ages two years in oak barrels and one year in bottle. Last year Mila adjusted her process by aging the wine for a year in steel after the two years in oak. And this year Mila is experimenting with the use of terracotta for fermentation. Despite her background in communications, Mila does not have a large presence in social media. But, she is a member of FIVI.
Zer05 – made with the primitivo grape by Cantina Regina Viarum, Falciano del Massico, Caserta, Campania, which is north of the City Caserta and in the southern part of the Falerno del Massico DOC. Regina Viarum produces about 25,000 bottles per year, and make natural/organic unfiltered wines primarily with the primitivo grape, which is generally associated with winemaking in the Province of
Puglia. There are only three other wineries in the southern part of the Falerno del Massico DOC that make wine with the primitivo grape. In the northern part of the Falerno del Massico DOC, the wineries make wine with the aglianico and piedirosso grapes. The vineyards of Regina Viarum have been owned by the Maddalena family for over 100 years, and now by husband/wife Pasquale Angelino and Elda Maddalena and daughter Amalia, who is the winemaker. Regina Viarum, which translates to “Queen of the Road” is located at the base of Mount Massico; wines from this area were a favorite of the ancient Romans. The Maddalena/Angelino family has been bottling wine since 2003; prior to 2003, they sold to other producers and kept a small amount for “home-made” wine. Zer05 is aged mostly in stainless steel for 18 months; a small amount is aged in small oak barrels. Regina Viarum in 2018 for the first time bottled a falanghina wine aged in amphora.
Titolo 2016 – made with the aglianico grape by Azienda Agricola Elena Fucci, Barile, Potenza, Basilicata. Elena with her husband Andrea Manzani produce about 18,000 bottles. Until recently Elena produced only Titolo, but last year she introduced a rose` to the portfolio and is experimenting with the use of amphora in the wine making process.. Elena’s grandfather Generoso purchased the vineyard in the late 1960s. At first the family made wine for local consumption and sold the excess grapes. It was not
until 2000 that Elena produced the estate’s first vintage. Under her direction the winery has been recognized every year for excellence. by the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso by achieving the highly coveted tre bicchieri designation. Her commitment to quality and sustainable viticulture is unwavering. She uses natural processes during fermentation as evidenced by the use of the “soft press” method when the grapes are placed in stainless tanks and the weight of the grapes causes a soft press. The wine ages for a year in new French oak barrels and then in the bottle for a year. Her new cantina, which replaced her “garage cantina”, is another example of her adherence to natural wine-making. The walls are specially designed to allow for proper ventilation to help cool and heat the space naturally. Most of the building materials are recycled products. With the assistance of specialists in the construction of buildings that use minimal fossil fuel energy sources, Elena vinifies and stores her wine in building that optimizes the use of sunlight and special construction materials to create an eco-friendly environment. Elena Fucci is a member of FIVI.
Le Drude 2012 – made with the aglianico grape, Azienda Agricola Michele Laluce, Ginestra, Potenza, Basilicata. Michele Laluce, with his wife Maria and four daughters, operates the winery. Caterina manages the finances of the winery, Maddalena, an enologist, is the wine-maker, Donatella, an agronomist operates the machinery and manages the farm animals, and Michela is studying culinary. The grapes are grown in volcanic soil near the extinct volcano Mt. Vulture. Since 1905 the Laluce family has produced wine, but only since 2001 has the wine been bottled for commercial purposes. Laluce, which produces about 40,000 bottles per year, is certified organic. Michele and Maddalena adhere to natural winemaking. When hte conditions are conducive they they use exclusively natural yeasts in the
fermentation process. Only 10 ppm of sulfites are added at bottling. Le Drude is fermented in stainless steel, aged for two years in oak barrels and for one to two years in the bottle before release. Le Drude was the name that the Piedmontese army gave to the courageous Brigand women of the Vulture area that fought the Piedmontese armed forces post-unification (after 1861). To honor these women Michele named his top wine Le Drude. Another historical note: the town of Ginestra was founded by a community of Albanian exiles led by the condottiere Francesco Zhura, who in 1478 after receiving land from the ruling Aragonese, started the community. The Albanian origins continue to live on in the traditions of the people of Ginestra. The town is designated as an Arbereshe’ community and features street signs written in both Italian and Arbereshe`.
Passione 2014 made with the aglianico grape by La Cantina di Enza, Montemarano, Avellino, Campania. The 41 year old Enza Saldutti is a fourth generation farmer. After working 20 years with various agronomists from the large Avellino producer, Feudi San Gregorio, to whom the family sold their grapes, the family decided in 2011 to separate from Feudi and produce their own wine. Enza assumed
the lead of her family cantina. She does not have an outside consulting consultant to assist her. Instead she relies on her instincts which are based upon her observation of Feudi agronomists recommendations and, more importantly, four generations of her family’s vineyard experience. Enza adheres to total natural winemaking; she adds nothing to the wine, she does not fine or filter and she does not even add sulfites at bottling, which most natural/low intervention wine makers do. Her wines are as “natural” as they can be. Passione ferments in steel and ages in old chestnut barrels for 12 months, not in the more commonly used oak barrels. Although she modestly describes herself as just a farmer, she is knowledgeable on the 8 different strains of aglianico grapes that are prevalent in her vineyard. She is in the process of weeding out three underperforming strains. Enza produces less than 7,500 bottles per year 0f which 1,200 to 1.500 are Passione. She does not have a large presence in social media, but Enza is a member of FIVI.
Piancastelli 2014 – made with the pallagrello nero and casavecchia grapes by Terre del Principe Societa` Agricola, Castel Campagnano, Caserta, Campania. Peppe Mancini and Manuela Piancastelli became interested in wine making after they were established in their careers as an attorney and journalist, respectively. Peppe recalling the days of his youth when his grandfather would make wine from pallagrello grapes (both the pallagrello nero and pallagrello bianco), forgotten grapes from a bygone era, dedicated himself to reviving these nearly extinct grapes. While doing so, Peppe rediscovered the casavecchia grape. Meanwhile Manuela working as a journalist interviewed Peppe about his quest to revive these long forgotten grapes. A lifetime partnership ensued. Manuela and Peppe got married and together they became dedicated to producing wine from the pallagrello and casavecchia grapes. After a collaboration with another winery ended, Peppe and Manuela started Terre del Principe in 2003. Piancastelli wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks, and aged in new oak barrels (30-50%)
and one and two year old oak barrels (50-70%). The wine ages in Terre del Principe’s historical wine cellar. It is 10 meters deep in the heart of the earth. The 100 square meter ancient cave of tufa stone was entirely dug out by hand, with thousands of chisel marks. It dates back to the 10th century which is the period in which the town of Castel Campagnano was founded. Terre del Principe, as many other wine producers in Southern Italy, is moving away from the use of barrique barrels to the larger Tonneau barrels. Terre del Principe, which produces about 20,000 bottles per year, is certified organic and a member of FIVI.
