Salerno, a centrally located city with a population of less than 140,000 with many miles of waterfront and many attractions, is often ignored by tourists. Salerno features a two-mile promenade with the Tyrrhenian Sea on one side and a park with palm trees on the other side. The promenade is busy
with early morning joggers and walkers, midday bathers and after dinner strollers. Some people relax and observe the action from the comfort of park benches. There is a marina along the promenade where ferry boats take
scheduled trips to towns along the Amalfi Coast.
The Centro Storico(historical center), which features a central walkway about the same length as the promenade with narrow alleys off the walkway, is located several blocks from the promenade. During the morning the Centro Storico is alive with fruit and vegetable stands and outdoor markets at piazzas. As the day moves from dusk to darkness the pulse of Centro
Storico shifts from a slow pace evening of strollers, enjoying a passeggiata, to a hip trendy scene (a scene that I do not participate in – I am not hip!). Throughout the day, however, there is one stabilizing presence – the many cafe that open early, close late, but always have espresso
available. There are many excellent restaurants on narrow alleyways, including my favorite, Osteria del Taglio (http://www.osteriadeltaglio.it).
The Salerno Cathedral ( or Duomo) is dedicated to St. Matthew (http://www.cattedraledisalerno.it). The nave is simpler than those of most churches in Italy we have seen, but the lower level chapel, where the remains of St. Matthew rest, is more ornate and has a colorful display that features ceiling frescoes representing Gospel passages. The photo at left shows the fresco of the Gospel story of the wedding at Canaan in which Jesus performs his first miracle, turning water into wine — a fitting picture for this blog.
Minerva Garden (Giardino della Minerva) (http://www.giardinodellaminerva.it) which is located near the Duomo was the first botanical garden in Europe that was used for cultivation of plants for therapeutic uses. The garden is a terraced and enclosed by walls. The garden features spectacular views of the Tyrrhenian sea.
Speaking of views, the Castello di Arechi located at the top of Mt. Bonadies, 263 meters above the City,
features views of the Sea, Salerno Port, Amalfi Coast and the roof tops of Salerno. The first sunlight in Salerno is seen at the top of Mt. Bonadies. Although my Mother’s surname is Bonadies, I have not been able to make a link to the mountain and my family. Back to the castle – it was originally a Byzantine fort built in the 8th century and subsequently updated by the Normans and Aragonese most recently in the 16th century.
The City of Salerno has a small organic winery located within its limits. Mila Vuolo’s winery is located in Giove, a frazione (think Dorchester as being part of Boston) of Salerno. Mila’s father, a physician, purchased the land on which the vineyard is located in 1980’s to be a “hideaway” working farm. When Mila’s father died sixteen years ago, Mila began working at the farm. After a couple years of commuting from Rome, she quit her telecommunication job and
dedicated herself full time at the farm. In addition to growing olives and apples Mila makes wine for commercial purposes. As a certified organic producer her first few vintages were small; which is typical for organic producers as it is difficult to create yield without non-natural interventions. Her grapes are hand-picked; no machinery.
In 2003 Mila had her first production – a modest 2,000 bottles. The next two years’ vintages were about the same. By 2006 the yield increased to 4,000 bottles. In 2007 the yield was 5,000 bottles and in 2009 the yield was 7,000. Her yield continues to grow in modest amounts. In 2013 Mila produced 10,000 bottles of aglianico and 3,000 bottles of fiano. She dedicates about two and one-half hectares for aglianico grapes and less than a hectare for fiano grapes.
There are several modes of transportation readily available linking Salerno to Amalfi coast towns by ferry and bus, to Napoli and Roma by high speed rail, by train and private auto to Cilento, by private auto to Pompeii and by private car to vineyards in the Provinces of Salerno, Napoli, Avellino and Caserta. Salerno is within walking distance of the Amalfi Coast. Barone B&B (http://www.baronepalace.com), where we stayed at our last trip, is located a short 15-20 minute walk from the Centro Storico and 30 minute walk to Vietri sul Mare, the first town on the Amalfi Coast.
Enjoy the sights and sounds of Salerno.
