This 15th Annual Wine and Extra Virgin Olive Oil tasting focuses on Southern Italian small family owned farms that produce low intervention wines and extra virgin olive oil made with organically grown grapes and olives. There will be 19 different wines and three different extra virgin olive oils included in the tasting. There is no expectation that all wines will be tasted! To facilitate decision making as to which wines to taste, the wines have been separated into seven groups: (1) three from Salerno paired with extra virgin olive oil produced by the wineries; (2) two from Cilento, (3) two from Falerno del Massico, (4) two from Irpinia. (5) two from Sicily, (6) four white wines from Campania and (7) favorites from four wineries that we have visited between 5 to 10 times each. In preparation for a further description of the seven groups, there is a short discussion on what constitutes low intervention wines and extra virgin olive.
Low Intervention Wine
What is the definition of a producer of low intervention wines? Non-interventionist winemakers use as few additives as possible and as little manipulation as they can. http://www.morethanorganic.com/definition-of-natural-wine (“More than Organic”). As More than Organic notes winemakers have to compromise at some point. Where and why they compromise depends upon what they are trying to achieve and how much they are prepared to risk in order to achieve. There are certain elements that compromise a total non-intervention wine, but as More than Organic notes that making a “perfect natural wine” is difficult to achieve. Sometimes winemakers will achieve this “perfect natural wine” but many times winemakers have to improvise in order to prevent the wine from spoiling. Winemakers that adhere to a natural process will intervene minimally and only when necessary.
Organic wines are not necessarily natural wines, but all natural wines are organic. Organic definition pertains mostly to methods and procedures in the vineyard – i.e. no chemicals or pesticides, only organic or natural fertilizers and integrated pest management processes are used. Organic wines are required to have far less sulfites than conventional wines. Natural definition pertains to the winemaking procedure in the cellar. Non-intervention or natural winemakers do not use additives, or as pointed out above, if necessary, use additives in the least amount of quantities.
In the United States 76 different additives are permitted to be used to manipulate wine. Here are a few of the additives: tartaric acid to boost the acidity in white wines, sugar to adjust alcohol, egg whites or bentonite to clarify wines and remove tannins, fish bladder to remove proteins, yeast and other organic particles which are in suspension in wine making, nonindigenous or cultured yeasts, powdered tannins for texture and astringency, gum arabic to soften tannins and reduce astringency to make a red wine more silky or the magic potion Mega Purple. Mega Purple is a concentrate made with the rubired grape, a hybrid grape grown exclusively in San Joaquin Valley, CA. A couple of drops of the gooey concentrate is added to red wine to add color, make the wine sweeter and cover up flawed flavors. It is prevalent in wines produced in large quantities at a low-cost and even some high-end wines. The wine conglomerate, Constellation Wine Company produces Mega Purple and reportedly sells over 10,000 gallons of it per annum. Although few wineries will admit to the use of Mega Purple, based on its annual sales, it is widely used.
Of the 76 additives, how many are added to natural wines? Some natural wine makers add none (a “perfect natural wine” which as noted above is a goal that is not always achieved) and others may add sulfites to preserve the wine at bottling at an amount far below permissible amounts that can be added to biodynamic or organic wines.
A distinguishing feature of natural wines is the use native or wild yeasts from their own grapes resulting in spontaneous fermentation, whereas non-natural wines use nonindigenous yeasts for a controlled fermentation. Luigi Moio, a leading wine consultant and a winemaker, takes the position that the distinction between wild yeasts and selected yeasts is overstated. https://vinoway.com/approfondimenti/vino/interviste/item/7551-luigi-moio-un-lievito-selezionato-non-ha-niente-di-chimico-%C3%A8-un-lievito-naturale.html In this Vino Way magazine article Luigi Moio stated the following:
Yeast plays a minor role in this process, particularly in the vinification of reds. Moreover, to make a wine that is an expression of a territorial identity, one must avoid olfactory deviations, and it is possible to do so even without the use of a selected yeast, although this ensures greater safety and better alcoholic fermentation. A selected yeast has nothing chemical, it has nothing strange, it is a natural yeast that has been isolated from others present in nature and categorized.
Selected yeasts are more reliable than wild yeasts, thus lessen the risks associated in the fermentation process. Natural winemakers are willing to take the risk that organic and conventional producers are not. There are many selected or commercial yeasts available for winemakers. Some selected or commercial yeasts are flavored, hence, results in the olfactory deviations that Luigi Moio says must be avoided. Moio and other organic winemakers that we have met use “neutral” yeasts; the same cannot be said of all winemakers, however.
A final introductory note – there are several associations that assist in the understanding of natural/non-intervention wines such as Raw Wine and the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers. Raw Wine http://www.rawwine.com. members meet the following requirements: (1) organic grapes grown without the use of chemicals, (2) wine produced by hand using artisanal techniques, (3) wine made with traditional processes that enable balance, (4) create a living wine, with low intervention in the cellar, and (5) promote well-being in individuals and communities. The Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers (FIVI). FIVI promotes the quality and authenticity of Italian wines. http://www.fivi.it.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
To produce extra virgin olive oil a producer picks only top quality olives from trees (no rotten olives that may have fallen to the ground before harvest) and presses (or crushes) the olives within 24 hours of harvest. The producer never blends olive oil that is not extra virgin oil or
vegetable oil to “stretch” the extra virgin olive oil. Not only will the taste of the tampered extra virgin olive be compromised, but also the health-relevant chemicals, “phytochemicals”, that trigger cancer cell death will be eliminated. Be wary of “extra virgin olive oil” that claims that it is “Made in Italy”. Study the label and determine if the olives that produce the extra virgin olive oil were cultivated in Italy or in another country. Many times these misleading labels prominently display a flag of Italy. Extra virgin olive oil not made exclusively from olives cultivated in Italy, is not necessarily inferior. Excellent extra virgin olive oil is made from producers in Greece, Spain, California, etc. But when olive oil “juice” is transported from other countries to Italy to be assembled into a product called extra virgin olive oil, there are too many points along the way for the olives and the extracted “juice” to be tampered. As a result I only purchase extra virgin oil from producers who I have met at their production site. Granted this approach may be more expensive, but I am satisfied because I know that I am consuming authentic extra virgin olive oil.
The Seven Groups
You are encouraged to taste all the wines and/or extra virgin olive oil in a particular group and please share your impressions with me.
Group 1 Salerno Taste Off of Wine and Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Group 1 includes three wineries that are within 20 miles of each other. Each produce extra virgin olive oil. Sip the wine, taste the extra virgin olive and see if you can assess whether the terroir has a similar effect on the wine and extra virgin olive oil. Aglianico di Baal 2015, is produced by Casa di Baal, located in Montecorvino Ravello, is a family owned farm that first produced olives, fruits and vegetables before adding grapes to the farm. They have been bottling wine for less than 15 years. Aglianico di Baal is a natural/organic wine. Under the leadership of Francesca Salerno, Casa di Baal, which is a member of Raw Wine, produces less than 25,000 bottles of wine per year. Under the leadership of Francesca’s older brother, Mario, Casa di Baal produces over 30.000 liters of extra virgin olive. Graminga 2013, is produced by Casula Vinaria, located in Campagna, and owned by three cousins, who have been bottling wine also for less than 15 years. The farm is located less than 11 miles from Casa di Baal. Graminga is a natural/organic wine. The fermentation begins in the vineyard. Armando Ruggiero, Daniele and Fiorella Iuorio produce about 20,000 bottles of wine per year. Mila Vuolo Aglianico 2015, is produced by Mila Vuolo. Her cantina is located in two frazioni of the City of Salerno, Rufoli and Giove. Mila assumed the ownership and operation of the farm upon her father’s untimely death in 2001. In 2003 Mila bottled her first vintage of 2000 bottles. Today Mila produces about 12,000 bottles per year. Mila Vuolo Aglianico is certified organic. During a trip to Boston last year Mila visited our law offices.
Group Two Cilento (South of City of Salerno)
Group Two includes two wineries that are less than 1.5 miles apart. The wines are different expressions of the aglianico grape. Pashka` 2018, is produced by Casebianche, located in Torchiara and owned by the husband/wife team of Betty Iourio and Pasquale Mitrano. They have been producing wine for less than 20 years on a farm originally owned by Betty’s grandfather. Pashka` is a sparkling natural wine, which is an equal blend of the aglianico and barbera grapes. There are no additives. or clarifying agents, despite the second fermentation in the bottle. The only sulfites in the wine naturally occur; sulfites are 8 parts per million (“ppm”). To provide perspective: USA allows up to 350 ppm in wine. Casebianche, which is a member of Raw Wine, produces about 30,000 bottles per year. Cilento Aglianico Vigna Giapoggio 2016, is produced by Verrone Viticolori, located in Cannetiello, and owned by brothers Paolo and Massimo. Their grandfather purchased the farm in 1967, the brothers have been bottling for about 20 years. Unlike Pashka, Vigna Giapoggio is a still wine made with 100% aglianico grapes. Verrone Viticolori abides by organic farming techniques and follows integrated pest control. Verrone produces about 30,ooo bottles per year. Paolo is an attorney.
Group 3 Neighbors in Falerno del Massico
Group 3 includes two wineries less than one mile from each other. Regina Viarum and Gennaro Papa are located in the municipality of Falciano del Massico, which is north of the City Caserta and south of Province of Lazio. Both wineries, which produce less than 25,000 bottles per year, make natural/organic wines with the primitivo grape, which is generally associated with winemaking in the Province of Puglia. Gennaro Papa is a member of FIVI. Zer05, 2016, is produced by Regina Viarum and has been owned by the Maddalena family for over 100 years, and now by husband/wife Pasquale and Elda and daughter Amalia. They started bottling their wine less than 20 years ago. Zer05 is a 100% primitivo based wine. Interestingly, Regina Viarum just bottled a falanghina wine aged in amphora. Optimiano 2016, is produced by Gennaro Papa and owned by Gennaro and his son Antonio. After many years of selling their grapes, the Papa family started bottling wine in 1999. Optimiano is a blend of equal parts of the primitivo and barbera grapes and 20% piedirosso grape. Antonio’s vineyards are at the highest elevation in the Falerno del Massico DOC.
Group 4 Irpinia
Group 4 includes two wineries within a short distance of each other. Fiorentino is a little over 3 miles from Antico Castello. Celsi 2013, is produced by Gianni Fiorentino and located in Paternopoli, Avellino. In 1914, Gianni’s grandfather immigrated to Boston and settled in Chelsea, MA. The grandfather sent money to the family in Italy with which it used to purchase the vineyard. Gianni, who has an annual production of about 15,000 bottles, started bottling wine less than ten years ago. He abides by organic farming. His 100% aglianico based Celsi (pronounced in Italian as “chel – sea”) is named in honor of his grandfather’s home in the USA. Taurasi, 2013, is produced by Antico Castello, San Mango Sul Calore, Avellino and is owned by the brother/sister combination, Francesco and Chiara Romano. The company is named in honor of an ancient castle that was destroyed in the 1980 devastating earthquake that impacted Irpinia and neighboring Vulture wine region. Francesco’s Taurasi is 100% aglianico. Franceso abides by organic farming and has an annual bottling of about 50,000. Last year Francesco hosted a wine tasting at our firm.
Group 5 Help Me Assess These Two Wines From Sicily
Group 5 includes wines from wineries that we have not visited. I have included these wines because I would like your opinion. So please share your impressions. Why did I select wines from these two wineries? Cantine Sollami is owned by a friend’s cousin. Magaddino is certified organic and located in a part of Sicily that many of my friends have ancestral roots. Don Michele 2017, is owned and produced by the Sollami family, located in Caltanisseta and is a 100% nero d’avola based wine. Nero d’Avola 2017, is owned and produced by the Maggadino family and located in Castellammare del Golfo. It is also a 100% nero d’avola based wine.
Group 6 White Wines from Campania
Group 6 includes four wineries of which three are described elsewhere in this blog post. Three of the wines are fiano based wines. Numero Uno 2017, is produced by Ventitre`Filari, Montefredane, Avellino. The mother/daughter ownership, Rosello and Rosa De Bennedetto, had its first production three years ago from a vineyard that Rosella’s grandfather planted 25 years ago. Before Ventitre`Filari started producing their own wine, they sold their grapes to Mastroberardino, Feudi San Gregorio and Villa Raiano. They produce only 4,000 bottles per year. Numero Uno is a fiano based wine produced in the DOCG zone of Avellino. Melodia 2017, is produced by Casula Vinaria (see Group 1) and is a fiano based wine. Fiano Vigna Girapaggio 2018, is produced by Verrone (see Group 1). Le Serole` 2017, is produced by Terre del Principe (see Group 7) and is a pallagrello bianco based wine. This is a third grape “rediscovered” by Peppe Mancini (see Group 7).
Group 7 Favorites Visited Between 5 to 10 Times
Group 7 includes four wineries that we have a strong connection. Together, we, along with many family members and friends have met the owners on over 30 occasions. I have introduced importers to these four, and two friends import their wines to Massachusetts. My ancestral roots are in the same Region as two of the owners. Piancastelli 2014, is produced by Terre del Principe, located in Castel Campagnano, Caserta. The husband/wife ownership, Peppe Mancini and Manuela Piancastelli, produce less than 20,000 bottles per year. Terre del Principe is a member of FIVI. Piancastelli is a certified organic wine that is a 70% pallagrello nero and 30% casavecchia blend. Peppe “rediscovered” these two ancient grapes that had fallen out of favor after the unification of Italy in 1860. Because of Peppe’s persistence thoughout the 1990’s, he demonstrated to the satisfaction of the Italian government the existence of these two grapes. Terre del Principe’s first vintage was 2003. Because of Peppe’s efforts there are now about 20 wineries in Caserta that make wine with these two previously forgotten grapes. Peppe, an attorney, and Manuela, a journalist, hosted a large tasting at our firm a couple years ago. Eight years ago, Manuela and Peppe hosted my Mother’s 85th birthday at their cantina. Cardemone 2017, is produced by Azienda Agricola Reale Andrea and located in the mountains of the Amalfi Coast in Gete, which is a frazione of Tramonti. The brother ownership, Luigi and Gaetano, began bottling about 15 years ago and produce less than 12,000 bottles per year. Cardemone is a natural/organic wine that is an 80% piedirosso and 20% tintore blend. Reale is one of a few wineries that cultivate the obscure tintore grape. This grape is found only on the Amalfi Coast, and Reale is the only winery that produces a 100% tintore based wine. Some of Reale’s vines are over 130 years old; pre-phylloxera vines. Luigi is a celebrity chef and the family owns an Osteria and B&B which are at the winery. My family has taken a pizza making class at Reale’s. Ragis 2013, is produced by Le Vigne di Raito and located in Raito, a frazione of Vietri sul Mare on the Amafli Coast. There are breath taking views of the Gulf of Salerno and the Amalfi Coast from the vineyard and cantina. Le Vigne di Raito, which produces about 5,000 bottles per year, is owned by Patrizia Malanga, who was born in the City of Potenza and raised in Bella, PZ. In 2001 she purchased the terraced land, planted the vines herself and produced her first bottling in 2007. Ragis is a natural/organic (certified) 80% aglianico and 20% piedirosso blend wine. Many family members and friends have visited Patrizia’s vineyard and enjoyed lunch at her tasting area adjacent to her cantina. Le Drude 2012, is produced by Michele Laluce and is located in Ginestra, a small town outside the City of Potenza. Michele with his wife Maria and four daughters operates the winery. Caterina, who is studying economics, manages the finances of the winery, Maddalena, a oneologist, is the wine-maker, Donatella, an agronomist operates the machinery and manages the farm animals, and Michela is studying culinary. Le Drude is a 100% aglianico based natural/organic wine from the Aglianico del Vulture wine region. Michele and Maddalena produce about 40,000 bottles per year. Michele started bottling in 2001. A historical note, Ginestra is one of several communities in the Vulture wine region that is home to Albanian exiles who because of a Turkish invasion fled Albania in the late 1400’s. Today, Ginestra and these other communities still have road signs in both Italian and Arbereshe’, the Albanian language spoken at the time of immigration to Italy.
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