The South is an emerging wine region, but this was not the case thirty years ago. Prior to the unification of Italy in 1861 and for many years thereafter there was a lack of economic opportunity in Southern Italy. As a result of many centuries of foreign domination followed by the more prosperous North’s inattentiveness, Southern Italy post-unification remained a poor area with capital and educational advancement mostly non-existent. Further stifling economic growth, post-unification Southern Italy was subject to unfair taxes on agricultural products imposed by the Northern dominated government.
The lack of economic opportunity was also prevalent in the wine industry. Before 1980 there were only a few commercial wineries in the South, with the most notable: (1) Mastroberdardino in the Irpinia wine region; and (2) Paternoster and D’Angelo in Vulture wine region. On the whole the wines from Southern Italy did not distinguish themselves with international critics. In 1986, Burton Anderson, who at the time was the world’s foremost authority on Italian wines, in his pocket guide to Italian wines dismissed the quality of wines of the Naples area as follows: “(t)hough some table wines are admirable, many reinforce the notion that Campanian wines are lightweights masquerading under melodramatic names.”
He does not limit his criticism to Naples area as he stated: “(t)hough most wines of maritime Campania, from the Gulf of Naples to Sorrento and Salerno, are laughable at best, exceptions include certain wines of the island of Ischia and the resort town of Ravello on the Amalfi Coast.” Despite the criticism Anderson did identify one bright spot; Mastroberardino which Anderson noted produced quality wines with aglianico, greco di tufo and fiano grapes in Avellino and was working to restore the ancient luster of wines from Mt. Vesuvius area. In all Anderson identified only twelve wineries in Campania worthy of special recognition. In contrast, Anderson identified over 75 and 100 wineries in Piemonte and Toscano, respectively, worthy of special recognition. From Anderson’s perspective, which was shared by most, Campania and the entire South produced for the most part wines of inferior quality.
In each of the past seven years I have visited wineries in Campania, Basilicata and Puglia; with an emphasis on Campania. In addition my cellar has many wines from Southern Italy. Anderson’s views of 30 years ago are not applicable to current Southern Italy viticulture. It is not just me that has reached this conclusion; Gambero Rosso, a foremost authority of Italian wines has documented the improvement in quality. The Gambero Rosso 2004 Guide awarded its highest recognition of three glasses to five wineries in Campania (254 three glasses were awarded to Italian wineries). In addition Gambero Rosso made special mention in the 2004 Guide of 44 wineries; 28 in the main section and 16 in the appendix. In its 2016 Guide Gambero Rosso granted its three glasses award to 21 wineries in Campania (421 three glasses were awarded to Italian wineries). In addition 56 wineries received special mention; and 54 in the appendix. Of the 110 wineries mentioned, many are located in the areas that were subject to criticism by Burton Anderson.
What have been the driving forces behind the emergence of Campania as a quality wine region? First, capital became available, more so with the establishment of the European Union, resulting in lower costs of cultivating vineyards and making wine. Second, as with any successful economic movement there are pioneers that carve a path for others. One approach was to convert the family vineyard into a
commercial winemaking enterprise. The other approach was to buy land or an existing vineyard, then produce wine for commericial purposes. One notable pioneer in the former category is Salvatore Molettieri of Montemarano, Avellino.
Up until 1982 Salvatore and his family, as did many local farmers, sold their grapes to Mastroberardino. In 1983 Salvatore decided to produce his own wines. At first he was a “jug” producer; entering his jug wine in the annual Montemarano wine festival. In October of 1985 he was awarded first place in the “Associazone Pro-Montemarano 3 edizioni ‘Sagra del Vino’ I Premio – Ottobre 85”. His first of many awards over the years. Salvatore’s first commercial bottling was 1988; which was available for sale in 1995. The wine aged nearly 7 years in big oak barrels. He produced 7,225 bottles; it sold out in one week. An American importer purchased 4,ooo bottles.
Following Molettieri’s lead, in 1990 Antonio Caggiano reorganized his family vineyard in Taurasi,
Avellino from selling grapes to producing commercial wine. With the assistance of Luigi Moio, a reknown wine consultant, Antonio had his first bottling in 1994. A few years later Michele Perillo in Castelfranci, Avellino stopped sending his grapes to Northern winemakers and began his commercial enterprise. In 1999 Michele had his first production of 2,100 bottles.
Many other wineries have had similar trajectories as Molettieri, Caggiano and Perillo; a family vineyard that is converted from a farm that served the interests of other winemakers to a family run commercial enterprise that produce wines that receive awards from Italian and international wine critics.
In contrast to the vineyards owned by families for generations, there is a new breed of producers; ones who acquired their vineyards within the past 30 years. Manuela Piancastelli and Peppe Mancini
owners of Terre del Principe, located in Castel Campagnano, Caserta, purchased their vineyard in 2001. They cultivate grapes that Peppe rediscovered; pallagrello nero, pallagrello bianco and casavecchia from which they make award-winning wines. Ciro Picariello purchased land in Summonte, Avellino for a vineyard in 1992 and founded his company 12 years later. Ciro produces award-winning wines from fiano and greco di tufo grapes. Patrizia Malanga purchased tland for her Raito, Salerno based winery in the early 2000’s. She produces an organic nonfiltered aglianico/piedirosso blend wine that has received acclaim.
There are many other wineries that are representative of
the emerging South. Over the next several months I will review these wineries, highlighting their origins and viticulture philosophy. I will focus on wineries that I have visited.
