After many years I have finally found what I have been looking for; a dining experience that replicates my Southern Italy dining experiences. Enoteca Umberto, 256 Atwell Ave. Providence (Federal Hill) is an unpretentious small restaurant (18 inside seats; several more outside) that captures the essence of Southern Italy cuisine. The menu features food that is either imported from Southern Italy or made in Southern Italian style. The wine list – e’ tutti dal Sud. Yes, all wines are from Southern Italy; no Tuscany or Piemonte wines and no Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot noir or Merlot.

The food is prepared on two burners and an oven separated by a small bar on which recommended wines of the day are placed. The diners are within 15 to 20 feet of the kitchen. The owners, Umberto and Lia Bellini, both of Southern Italian heritage, Messina and Caserta, work together to create a family dining experience. The effervescent Umberto explains the menu and wine pairings; and engages in friendly banter.  The steady Lia prepares the food; including the specials of the day which are dependent upon what fresh ingredients Lia finds.

George Schwartz, owner of Kimera Imports, invited me to dinner at Umberto Enoteca. George specializes in Italian

wines and wants to expand his Southern Italian wine portfolio. It is through his client Francesco Romano, owner of Antico Castello located in San Mango Sul Calore, Avellino that George and I

reconnected. (I had met George several years ago.) I met Francesco through my friend Gaetano Petrillo of The Wine Bus and George met Francesco through Umberto Bellini’s cousin in Caserta. (“I am your father’s brother’s nephew’s cousin’s former roommate …. – thank you Mel Brooks.)

We paired wines not exported to the United States with Lia’s Southern Italian dishes. Specifically, we tasted the following: Terre di Sylva Mala’s Fruscio di Ginestra, Salvatore Magnoni’s  Primalaterra, Mila Vuolo’s Aglianico and Colli Cerentino’s Masqito. The first wine is made with 80% coda volpe and 20% falanghina grapes; and the other wines are made only with the aglianico grape. We enjoyed

a leisurely three hour dinner where as in Southern Italy time is of no relevance. It is my hope that some of these outstanding wines will be available in the United States; if they are you may find them at Enoteca Umberto.

Suggestion: if you plan to visit this gem of a restaurant you should call to make reservations. Due to its excellence and small size walk ins are difficult to accommodate.

George Schwartz and Umberto Bellini in photo at top with bottle of Salvatore Magnoni’s Primalaterra.